Winter acne: how to manage imperfection-prone dry skin

THE CAUSES OF DANDRUFF

There are many reasons why you might be prone to dandruff. From genetics to a change in hormones, or even environmental factors, dandruff can appear at any time in your life and is believed to affect around half of the population at any given time.

“Dandruff is by far the commonest scalp condition affecting approximately half the population. It affects all ages and races of people. It is a long term condition that can fluctuate in severity and will come and go throughout a person’s life. Common triggers include seasonal change (being worse in winter) and also during times of stress. It is therefore a condition that requires ongoing maintenance treatment to keep visible flakes in check”.
– Dr. Sharon Wong, Consultant Dermatologist and Hair Specialist
No matter the cause, dandruff can occur when a scalp-dwelling microbe called Malassezia globose becomes overgrown. This microbe’s main purpose is to remove sebum and natural oil from the scalp, but it can also cause a fair bit of sensitivity, especially in those who are sensitive to oleic acid. The body responds to this irritation by creating flakes of dandruff – much like our skin’s reaction to irritation.

OILY DANDRUFF

When the scalp becomes very oily, it creates the ideal environment for the Malassezia to thrive. This can lead to increased itchiness and flaking of the scalp. But while both men and women can experience dandruff, the oiliness at the root of it can be caused by different factors.

• Hormone fluctuations: Throughout their lives, women go through many different hormone fluctuations such as in puberty, pregnancy, and menopause. A side effect of this is the production of excess sebum in the scalp which makes women more prone to visible flakes due to dandruff
• Naturally oilier scalps: Men on the other hand tend to have more oily scalps than women
• Protein loss: Studies show men lose more protein from their scalps which increases their risk of visible flakes due to dandruff
• A weakened skin barrier: A compromised skin barrier on the scalp can cause of flakes on both men’s and women’s scalps
• Poor personal hygiene: Not maintaining adequate scalp hygiene can also be the cause of flakes on both men’s and women’s scalps
• Lifestyle factors: Your diet, stress levels, and how often you wash your hair can also leave your scalp more oily than normal

DRY DANDRUFF

Dry dandruff is characterised by small, white, dry flakes of dead skin in the hair and on the scalp. Dry dandruff typically appears as fine, powdery flakes that are not accompanied by significant oiliness. They brush off easily onto the shoulders when the head is scratched or brushed. Dry dandruff can be caused by a variety of facts such as:

• Dry skin: People with naturally dry skin might be more prone to developing dry dandruff
• Infrequent shampooing: Not washing the hair often enough can lead to a buildup of dead skin cells
• Sensitivity to hair care products: People might react to certain ingredients in hair care products

This type of dandruff can usually be treated with specialist shampoos which aim to relieve and moisturise dry or flaky scalps.
What’s the difference between oily and dry dandruff?
While oily dandruff is sticky and thicker and caused by excess sebum, dry dandruff is characterised by its flaky texture and fine, white (or grey) particles created by a lack of sebum and a dry scalp. These flakes brush off easily onto the shoulders when the head is scratched or brushed. The good news is that it can usually be targeted with specialist shampoos which aim to relieve and moisturise dry or itchy scalps.

Treatment for Dandruff in Women and Men

Once you’ve identified the cause and type of your dandruff, you can start the search for the right products. The Vichy Dercos range has dedicated shampoos to help you improve the appearance of the visible flakes associated to dandruff while treating excess sebum on the scalp.

The Dercos Anti-Dandruff Shampoo for Dry Hair, for instance, uses Selinium DS, salicylic acid, ceramides and menthol to eliminate 100% of visible flakes after the first use* and keep the scalp flake free for up to six weeks. There’s also a Dercos Anti-Dandruff Shampoo for Normal to Oily Hair types, to tackle very stubborn dandruff by drawing on salicylic acid, apricot kernels, niacinamide, piroctone, and Vichy mineralizing thermal water, soothing and purifying an itchy scalp while leaving it flake free.

WHAT DR. SHARON WONG, CONSULTANT DERMATOLOGIST AND HAIR SPECIALIST, SAYS ABOUT DERCOS

“Vichy Dercos is a highly effective anti-dandruff shampoo range that removes up to 100% of visible flakes after the first wash* and provides up to 6 weeks anti-dandruff protection. During flare ups the product is used 2-3 times per week for a month and then twice a week long term to prevent episodes of dandruff relapse.

Aside from it’s efficacy, the other stand out feature of the Vichy Dercos anti-dandruff shampoo range is that the products all contain multiple conditioning agents which are deeply nourishing for the hair and non-drying to the scalp. Indeed the drying effect of many anti-dandruff products is one of the commonest reasons why individuals stop using them long term, resulting in a relapse in their scalp condition. This is particularly the case with Afro-textured hair types.

Vichy Dercos caters for all hair and scalp types, including normal-oily, dry and sensitive. Their anti-dandruff shampoos have a creamy texture, with a rich lather and pleasant, non-medicated fragrance which does not compromise on the sensorial experience of hair/scalp care whilst effectively addressing dandruff. These are all important properties of the Vichy Dercos anti-dandruff range which fundamentally improves compliance with ongoing maintenance use and therefore preventing relapses of dandruff in the long term.”

Your Flake Free Future

Now you know a little more about the causes and types of dandruff, you can start to take steps to getting rid of those visible flakes for good. Don’t forget to look at all lifestyle factors including your stress levels, personal hygiene and any hormonal changes that could be causing your dandruff, and be sure to add dedicated anti-dandruff shampoos to your daily routine.
Discover Vichy’s full range of Dercos hair care or speak to your doctor or dermatologist for personalised advice. You can also connect with other men and women experiencing similar concerns in our Vichy Community.

*Consumer test on 262 subjects after 2 weeks of regular use

When it comes to managing acne in winter, it’s important to make sure skin is sufficiently hydrated to combat cold or dry winds and temperatures, without throwing sebum production off-balance.

Going overboard on alcohol-based toners or traditional astringents can lead to skin ‘overcompensating’ by producing even more sebum to counteract this perceived dryness. As a result, you should opt for a richer day cream in winter to respond to dehydrating conditions, while making sure to thoroughly cleanse skin to avoid spreading bacteria.

As well as adapting your skincare routine to take winter conditions into account, it may help to make a couple of lifestyle changes when temperatures start to drop. Avoid non-hypoallergenic products that could irritate skin - not always easy when it comes to Christmas gift sets - and try not to go overboard with hot baths or showers, as extreme temperatures can irritate sensitive skin.

Sources:
[1] http://www.dermagazine.fr/soleil-et-acne-pas-vraiment-amis/
[2] Gfesser, M. et al, ‘Seasonal variations in the severity of acne vulgaris’ in International Journal of Dermatology 35.2 (1996) pp. 116-117
[3] Al-Ameer, A. et al, ‘Demographic features and seasonal variations in patients with acne vulgaris in Saudi Arabia: a hospital-based study’ in International journal of dermatology 41.12 (2002) pp. 870-871
[4] Sardana, K. et al, ‘Seasonal variation in acne vulgaris--myth or reality’ in The Journal of dermatology 29.8 (2002) pp. 484-488